Iceclimbing 4days
This 4-day ice climbing course offers a complete introduction to climbing on ice, combining technical instruction, safety systems, and practical experience on real routes. Each day focuses on a key skill set—anchors and safety, meteorology, route formation and hazards, and planning—followed by climbing sessions that build technique, confidence, and independence. By the end, you’ll understand how to climb efficiently, manage protection, perform basic self-rescue, and lead safely on ice.
A 4-day ice climbing course designed to build solid skills in movement, safety, anchors, route planning, and leading. Perfect for beginners and intermediate climbers wanting structured progression over four focused days.
This comprehensive 4-day ice climbing course is designed for climbers who want structured, progressive training in the essential skills of modern ice climbing. Through a mix of theoretical lessons and practical climbing, you’ll learn everything from safety chains and anchor building to meteorology, route formation, mountain hazards, and how to plan a complete climbing day. Each topic is paired with a practical session on the ice, ensuring you understand both the theory and its real-world application.
Throughout the course, you’ll practice climbing techniques, tool and crampon efficiency, screw placement, rope systems, rappelling and ascending, and essential self-rescue techniques. The final day focuses on leading skills, helping you transition toward independence on ice routes. Instruction is tailored to your experience level, providing you with personalized coaching and a safe environment to progress.
By the end of the four days, you’ll have gained the confidence, skill, and knowledge to climb ice responsibly, understand route conditions, evaluate risks, and plan and execute your own objectives in the winter mountains.
FULL COURSE PROGRAM
Below is the full program with four lessons (theory) and four practical climbing days.
Lesson 1 — Presentations, gear check, Anchors & Safety Chain
- Presentation of the course
- Gear check of participants
- Understanding the safety chain in ice climbing
- Building solid ice anchors (V-threads, screws, intermediate protection)
- Principles of load management and redundancy
- Communication and safety protocols
Day 1 — Climbing Technique & Screw Placement
- Basic & advanced tool techniques
- Footwork, balance, body positioning, movement fluency
- Efficient screw placement from secure stances
- Building confidence on vertical ice
Lesson 2 — Meteorology
- Reading winter weather forecasts
- Temperature gradients & their effect on ice quality
- Recognizing dangerous weather patterns (storms, wind, temperature swings)
- Understanding avalanche implications for ice terrain
Day 2 — Rappelling & Ascending Ropes
- Setting up safe rappel systems
- Using V-threads and anchors for descent
- Ascending fixed ropes with mechanical or improvised systems
- Rope management and communication
Lesson 3 — Route Formation & Mountain Hazards
- How ice routes form: freeze–thaw cycles, water flow, ice types
- Recognizing unstable or dangerous formations
- Objective hazards: falling ice, temperature effects, terrain traps
- Safe approach and descent strategies
Day 3 — Self-Rescue Techniques
- Escaping the belay
- Improvised hauling systems
- Assisting a partner on ice
- Emergency strategies for common problems
Lesson 4 — Planning a Day & a Route
- How to select an objective based on weather, conditions, and ability
- Time management and turnaround times
- Gear preparation and rack selection
- Decision-making and risk evaluation
- Emergency planning
Day 4 — Leading on Ice
- Lead climbing strategy and risk management
- Protection spacing and route reading
- Building and transitioning at belay stations
- Coaching on lead attempts in controlled conditions
If conditions are not good, the outdoor days are on the glacier at Sólheimajökull
The location of the outdoor days will be decided at the lesson or few days before, according to the weather and ice conditions.
Transfer for the outdoor days is not included; food and drinks are not included
Gear can be rented (boots, crampons, ice axes, helmet and harness) for the course.
Participants have to come prepared to stay out for hours in cold weather with good, warm and waterproof clothes.
Lessons are in a warm and cosy room at Klifurhusið in Ármuli 21 in Reykjavik.
Instructor: Matteo Meucci
Group size: Max 6 students
Program for the course:
3 Dec 2025 Lesson 1 h20:00
6 Dec 2025 Water Ice or glacier h8:00
10 Dec 2025 Lesson 2 h20:00
14 Dec 2025 Water Ice or glacier h8:00
4 Jan 2026 Water Ice or glacier h8:00
7 Jan 2026 Lesson 3 h20:00
10 Jan 2026 Water Ice or glacier h8:00
14 Jan 2026 Lesson 4 h20:00
For more info and bookings contact info@jotnarmountaineering.is
